I arrived after an uneventfull flight at about ten in the morning, 40 mins or so to get through customs and I was in a taxi to where I was booked in for two months. I could hardly believe that I was in Buenos Aires the home of Tango. This trip has many firsts in it. First time in South America, south of the equator, summertime Christmas in the taxi ride to San Telmo I am reminded of Spain and Lisbon with the look of the place. When I arrive I am greeted by Ines and immediately treated to coffee and the local croissant (Medialunas) since I dance this step sure why not eat it. They are lovely when hot. Up to the room which is light and airy has a fan and air conditioning so it is going to be that hot.
An hour later I am taking my first walk in BsAs. I stroll around for awhile and end up by Plaza Dorrega where there is a market every Sunday, Artists and craftsmen display their wares for all and sundry. Musician and dancers are there also demonstrating their skill. I hear La Cumparsita and make my way to where it is coming from and spot an elderly couple demonstrating for the public. a little while later another couple get up and dance some Tango's lots of big moves, steps I never saw before, it is a powerful feeling for me to watch this. No doubt years of practice has gone into this, of course I want it now. Well I have two months ahead of me to practice, dance and learn as much as possible.
As I write this I am almost half way through my stay. It is the 3rd of Janaury New Years eve was quiet for dancing put was a party day. Many thanks to Monina for inviting me to her extended family for dinner, lots of aunts, uncles, nieces and nephews all taking turns for practicing their english. There was much amusement with their choice of words. After partying we went to La Catedral. Not much dancing I'm afraid exhaustion had set in nearly 24 hours on the trot at this stage, finished there at about 6:30am. We then went and started New Years day at Uki's home with Mate and Pan Dulce (A typical Argentinian tea and sweet bread).
The above table shows approximately the hours per day of classes and milongas attended. The first week nearly 50 hours of classes and milongas. I was ragged by Tuesday. That plus the heat, humidity and worst of all not being able to sleep past 9am left me completely useless for a day. I had to come up with a different strategy. I still can't sleep past 9am so I try to take a few hours kip in the afternoons that I am not taking a lesson. It seems to be working so far. Though I am tired all the time. That said once I am on the dance floor it lifts completely. Tango for me is very uplifting. That exhaustion lead me to my first big faux pas. I was nodding off between dance sets (Tandas) at Club Gricel when a lady sat at my table and said hello Gerry to me. I couldn't believe how this woman could know my name, so naturally enough I asked her how she knew me, she replied that we had danced just a few hours earlier in another milonga. I sure felt sheepish it was time for bed.
The way of asking for a dance at a milonga is with the raise of an eyebrow or a smile and a gentle nod of the head this can be tricky with low lighting and 50 feet, but I am glad to report it has worked well for me and I have not yet gone to a table thinking I was sucessfull only to find that she had someone else in mind. Whew!! thought there have been a few near misses where I was about to go but realised my mistake in time. If one has had a good dance with a teacher or teacher's partner it sure opens up the amount of positive responses in the following days on the other hand if your first dance is with a partner who literally has never danced Tango before it can be very difficult to get a dance in that milonga. Its happened twice so far.
Dancing and taking classes daily it is hard to feel what changes are happening in my dancing.
A girl called Sandra danced with me in El Beso 3 days after I arrived and again 3 weeks later in Niño Bien and complimented me on the changes made. I was chuffed for the rest of the week. Somethings I do see are that steps that I have never learned or seen pop out of nowhere which can be cool. The biggest change I think is musical interpretation. This is picked up more from watching other dancers than learned from teachers, and of course listening, listening and more listening.
